First ascent of Mount Manaslu in winter after two and a half decades

Published On: January 9, 2023 11:30 AM NPT By: Santosh Pokharel


POKHARA, Jan 9: After almost two and a half decades, Mount Manaslu has been successfully climbed for the first time in the 'winter season'. Six Nepali Sherpas and one foreigner completed the ascent of Manaslu (8163 m), the eighth highest mountain in the world.

The expedition was led by Seven Summit Treks. The climbers reached the peak last Friday (January 6, 2023) between 8:40 AM and 8:50 AM. According to Thaneshwar Guragain, the manager of Seven Summit Treks, among the climbers was 41-year-old climber Alex Seacon from Spain.

Along with him were Nepali Sherpas including 40-year-old Chepal Sherpa of Patel-2 of Okhaldhunga, 44-year-old Gyalu Sherpa of Patel-3, 35-year-old Tenzen Sherpa of Makalu-9 of Sankhuwasabha, 32-year-old Pasang Norbu Sherpa, 34-year-old Mingtemba Sherpa and 22-year-old Pemba Tasi Sherpa.

According to the Department of Tourism, this is the first ascent of Mount Manaslu in the winter season after two and a half decades. Yuvraj Khatiwada, director of mountaineering branch of the department, said that a South Korean team had completed the ascent of Mount Manaslu on December 6, 1998. 

"This is the first ascent in winter after almost two and a half decades, a very challenging ascent has been completed," said Khatiwada, "As the weather is colder, the ascent at this time is considered challenging," he explained.

Alex, a Spanish climber who climbed Manaslu, had previously climbed Pakistan's Nagna Parbat in winter of 2016. There were other climbers with him. 

"Climbing Mount Manaslu in the winter is a historic opportunity. It is a huge accomplishment in adventure activities,” Guragain said. Mount Manaslu in Gorkha is also famous as the ‘Killer Mountain’. Climbers consider climbing this mountain to be quite an adventure.

Surveyor Khimlal Gautam, who has also measured the height of the highest peak, Everest, said that climbing Manaslu in the winter season is a very challenging activity. He said that this is an important achievement in the history of mountaineering and the memory of this day of climbing will be written in golden letters in history.

The Department of Tourism opens mountain climbing in the months of March, April, May (Spring) and in September, October and November (Autumn). According to this year's data, the highest revenue was collected from the 8,163 meter high Mount Manaslu in autumn. 

The department collected revenue of Rs 46.3 million only from Mount Manaslu. A total of 404 people from 38 groups took permission to climb Mount Manaslu. Out of which 307 were male and 97 were female. Especially in spring and autumn, people participate the most in mountain climbing. 


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